A Quick Overview on Home Ventilation

Before the seventies, not a lot of attention was paid to cutting down air infiltration and to protecting against heat loss in houses. However, now that more emphasis is being given to tighter and more energy-efficient homes, we are seeing new problems with indoor air quality. Low air change rates are bringing about the buildup of moisture and pollutants, many of which can affect the health of homeowners and occupants, while also possible causing damage to the structures of houses.

To avoid these potential dangers, homeowners should provide for adequate air changes, as well as air movement through places like attics, crawlspaces, and unconditioned parts of the house.

For comfort and for the prevention of damage to house structures, homeowners should focus on achieving indoor humidity level that’s moderate. In most homes, where there’s a lot of cooking and bathing involved, or even just breathing, one may expect a considerable amount of moisture being generated. This is not to mention water penetration problems in crawlspaces and basements. Once humidity exceeds the moderate levels, it can manifest itself in the form of substantial condensation on windows and cold surfaces, and may eventually lead to problems with mildew and mold. This is not uncommon in Chicago and Metropolitan Chicago area homes where not enough attention is being paid to ventilation.

On the other end of the spectrum, chronic low humidity leads to a lot of discomfort, and can even cause damage to a house’s furnishings, fixtures, and finishes, leaving them dry and prone to cracking. Low levels of humidity indoors may prompt people to use humidifiers – especially during hot seasons or if they have forced warm air heating. These humidifiers, however, must be taken care of regularly, and even checked by home inspectors, in order that it does its job without pumping in excessive amounts of moisture. To help control the quality of indoor air, whole-house mechanical ventilation systems have been made available; heat recovery ventilators, meanwhile, incorporate a heat exchange process for a more energy-efficient operation.

Apart from providing enough air changes within the living areas of a house, ventilation of attics and crawlspaces is also important, as it prevents heat or moisture from building up, no matter the season. Heat buildup, after all, can lead to premature roof wear and uncomfortable indoor temperatures. Excessive moisture, meanwhile, can be the source of problems like fungal growth, odors, pests, and the decay of structural wood.

Homeowners should also be on the lookout for the infiltration of air with a lot of moisture, especially in attics and crawlspaces. During the winter, if warm moist air from the living areas enter the attic and makes contact with the colder underside of the roof sheathing or the joists in a crawlspace, the water vapor will condense – leading to possible structural decay and fungi growth. Condensation is a big concern among houses with cathedral-style ceilings, insulated roofs, and inadequate vapor retarders.

One way to prevent potential ventilation problems is by providing for at least one square foot of net-free vent area for each 150 sq. ft. of attic floor area. Additional ventilation measures may also be required, depending on actual house and weather conditions. If the temperature in the attic is higher than that of the air outside, or if one has noticed signs of condensation, then additional ventilation is called for. The ideal arrangement would be to set up intake vents at the lower eave area, and then exhaust vents at an area near the roof peak or the ridge vents. These vents should also be left open at all times, provided of course that the house is also properly insulated.

Sometimes, forced venting may be the solution. A wind- -assisted or electric-powered rooftop exhaust fan improves air flow through an attic; units like these are controlled by a thermostat. In other cases, it’s a humidistat that’s required, or maybe even whole house fans that are used generally for air-exchange purposes in the summer. These fans are designed to remove warm air from the living area by leading cooler, fresher air into the house.
Basements and attics must also be given enough ventilation. At least one square foot of free vent area is needed for every 1500 square feet. The ideal vent placement is to put the unit near the foundation corners, and to provide adequate moisture barriers, foundation grading and draining. In colder areas and neighborhoods in Chicago, or in colder climates, insulation between floor joists and basement walls is also recommended, but one must take safety measures to prevent any pipe freeze-up.

Ventilation problems can also arise from issues with appliances that burn fuel, like furnaces, boilers, and water heaters. That’s why it’s important to either consult home inspectors or follow the ventilation recommendations and codes of manufacturers. If unsure about your ventilation, have your venting systems checked. This will significantly reduce air quality concerns and prevent ventilation-related issues like carbon dioxide buildup.

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Keeping Basement Walls in Top Condition

It’s pretty exciting to be decorating and beautifying the walls of our homes; unfortunately, we don’t usually pay a lot of attention to our basement walls. Left neglected, basement walls can suffer from damages like leaks and moulds, reducing the value of our own houses as well as the level of safety within them.

Fixing basement walls, however, isn’t as complicated as it sounds. Here are a few simple tips to keep them strong and sturdy, not damp and decrepit.

Check the source of moisture. We all know what the weather in Chicago Metropolitan Area is like. The best way to cope with unpredictability is to be prepared. So check your rain gutters. Are they functioning properly? Are the downspouts clear and open? To carry or direct water away from the foundation, make sure you use long leaders or downspout extensions. If it’s possible, slope the ground around the wall.

Seal. Damp walls can be fixed with something as simple as a seal on a crack or a gap. There are lots of sealing materials you can use – the ones with a caulking compound are recommended – which can fix masonry types of basement walls. If, however, problems persist, consult qualified professionals and home inspectors, as they’ll be more equipped to determine if you need more extensive waterproofing work.

Prevention is better than patchwork. Waterproofing contractors will have lots of advice and recommendations for you to be able to remove the water that seeps in basement walls. But you can get ahead by focusing on prevention efforts, and by keeping the water from infiltrating your walls in the first place. As mentioned above, carry or direct the water away from the foundation. That way, you won’t have to do a significant amount of patchwork.

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