Home Sellers, This Is Why You REALLY Need A Professional Real Estate Agent!

There is a well-known saying in the real estate field that goes, “in order to succeed in life, you need to be the first child, the second spouse, or the third realtor”. Like all other sayings, there’s some kind of anecdotic truth in the statement, and real estate agents who deal with listings of home sellers will attest to this.

Are you making an informed choice?

While it is perfectly natural for a home seller to expect to earn as much money as possible from the transaction, making an uninformed decision about the selling price is a huge mistake. If spot on, a higher selling price of the property means more financial opportunities. On the other hand, an overinflated price will drive away bids and, in the end, the home seller will be forced to give up the house for a significantly lesser cash.

How to price your property

A far better approach to correctly estimating the sum that your property is worth implies becoming familiar with the factors and variables that matter in real estate. You could hire an appraiser or you can come up with an educated price based on real estate market movements, similar properties and upgrades included (or that will be included in the near future). As you can see, this technique comprises of an educated opinion and, practically, you cannot talk about a hard and fast price tag for the house.

One of the common concerns of home sellers is listing their property too low. However, as any professional real estate agent will inform you, there is no such thing as listing a property with a price under the market value. In the eventuality that you will be forced to list your home at a sub-optimal price, the multitude offers you will receive will usually drive up the price higher and towards the real market value of the property. The only real problem occurs when the price listed for the property is excessively high.

A real estate agent is your beacon of light!

Given these facts to digest, inexperienced home sellers should look for an honest real estate agent who can present them the reality of the situation, be it good or bad. If you are choosing an agent solely based on the price that he thinks your house is worth, then you will be making a huge mistake and you may lose substantial amounts of cash. Contrary to the common belief, real estate agents do not select the prices of properties, but rather guide their clients into making the right choice on their own.

Nonetheless, the realtor can provide very useful advice, which will generally help clients attain a higher selling price. For instance, one classic method of getting a better offer for a house entails investing in upgrades (especially for the kitchen and bathroom) and making sure everything, all fixtures and appliances are functional. Serious buyers who are interested in the property will usually bring in a home inspector who will give a final verdict on the condition of the house and potentially required investments.

Lastly, simply by working with a professional real estate agent, you could obtain a higher bid for your property as these professionals have amazing negotiating skills who will present your case in the best possible light.

Brett Boone is trying to sell his home to an Edmond Realtor. His continuous failure made him hire a professional Edmond Real Estate Agent and he is willing to share the importance of having one through his article.

Home Inspections Can Expose Real Estate Deal-Breakers

Is sub prime lending the cause of the housing slump? Many news articles and reports on the housing market will be quick to point this out as responsible for low house sales, but it is also true that potential homebuyers with good credit are becoming more and more cautious.

“It’s a buyer’s market, so people are getting smarter, even pickier, about making decisions,” says Kathleen Kuhn, President and CEO of HouseMaster, one of America’s biggest home inspection organizations and a leading provider in Chicago. “Buyers these days realize that they can negotiate and renegotiate based on the results of professional home inspections.”

If sellers are unwilling to make repairs or sell for a lower price, Kuhn adds, buyers – already aware of the growing number of properties on sale – may not hesitate to consider other options and start looking elsewhere.

Through its franchises, HouseMaster has performed an estimate of two million professional home inspections for clients. This is how Kuhn knows about many of the conditions that put off homebuyers and break deals. Sellers, however, don’t necessarily think that securing a sale fairly is out of their control. “We’ve encountered an increasing number of home sellers who are actually getting home inspections before placing their properties on the listings,” Kuhn notes. “It’s their way of fixing problems and addressing the issues beforehand, so that when the time comes when they have to face the buyers, they will worry less about these prospects walking away.
Kuhn goes on to identify four concerns that buyers and sellers alike consider as potential real estate deal-breakers:

1. Problems with roofing: Homebuyers and new homeowners do not want to close a deal and then find out that they would have to shoulder the cost of repairing – or even replacing – a defective or leaking roof.
2. Electrical concerns: Defects related to electricity turn off lots of homebuyers, especially if they find old panels that are undersized, and which may cause potential fire hazards.
3. Issues with the structure of the house: It’s not a common problem, but it’s a major one. Buyers will not want to shoulder the cost of restructuring a house; that’s why presale inspections would sometimes require calling in a structural engineer, a repair professional, and other qualified specialists.
4. Synthetic Stucco or Exterior Insulation Finish Systems (EIFS): In general, EIFS is a viable and cost-effective alternative to traditional stucco. In some cases, however, moisture gets trapped behind the sidings as a result of improper installation. The structural damage this can inflict can cost tens of thousands of dollars.

According to Kuhn, sellers can leverage home inspections so as not to be caught off-guard by issues. “In today’s market, every edge counts. Because buyers have more choices now, they’ll only be really open to dealing with conscientious, responsible sellers who have taken all the steps to sell fairly and competitively.”

Controlling Water Penetration in Homes

The weather doesn’t always agree with homeowners – metropolitan Chicago, for instance, can see more rainwater in a year than generally expected. As a result, a significant amount of water may penetrate the sub-grade areas of many homes – with runoffs from the roof, water surfaces around yards, and water that makes its way from the perimeter of the house to seep through the foundation walls and cracks, increasing the likelihood of damages, defects, and water-related hazards.

Professional home inspections help in identifying common causes of water penetration. Usually, these causes are minor; in some cases, they may be harder to detect. Following are some of the reasons why water penetration may occur in houses:

• Absence of gutters and downspouts that are meant to handle the water runoff from the house’s roof
• Gutters that overflow and downspouts that discharge water at the foundation
• Flat properties and slopes that allow surface water to collect and seep through foundations and walls
• Water runoffs that come from the street and make their way unobstructed to driveways and other areas of a house that are below street level
• Clogged catch basins, surface drains, and underground lines that do a poor job of preventing soil saturation
• Excessive indoor humidity, which can lead to condensation on cool surfaces like walls, floors, and water pipes
• Groundwater level that’s near or above the crawlspace or basement floor level
• Underground water flow

Whatever the cause may be, steps must be taken to minimize or prevent water penetration. Homeowners can address the issue by stopping the water before it seeps in. There are also several other water management techniques, all of which first require identification of the cause of water penetration.

One way of doing just this is by walking around the perimeter of the house after heavy rainfall. Gutters and downspouts should be inspected, as should the roof runoff and the possible flow of surface water toward the house.
From there, homeowners can take the next step and:

• Set up gutters and downspouts, particularly in cases where the runoff from the roof doesn’t drain freely away from the foundation;
• Clean up gutters, downspouts, catch basins, and underground lines, and repair sections where leakage has been shown to occur;
• Direct water to splash blocks, or to leaders that extend away from the foundation. Pipes may be needed to direct water to the curb or to a storm sewer;
• Inspect the overall foundation grading and determine if it’s sloping away from the house. It may be necessary to add provisions for grass, drains, or swales on sloping areas;
• Raise the foundation grading if it’s too flat or if it slopes toward the house. As a general rule, aim for 1-2 inches per foot for at least 3 feet from the foundation;
• Clean window wells and confirm that they drain quickly. Plastic covers may be necessary to shed water;
• Make sure that there’s a working drain in a recessed basement;
• Add dehumidifiers to balance humidity and prevent condensation in areas like the basement;
• Install a sump pit at the lowest level of the basement in cases where there’s significant water penetration, and direct/discharge the water to a point where it flows away from the foundation.

Once these measures are taken, it’s important to regularly check on water management efforts and see if they hold up after a full year of normal weather conditions. To increase protection and control dampness, homeowners can opt for an extra coat of quality water-proofing paint to be applied to foundation walls. Before painting, however, all cracks, holes, and joints must be sealed with a waterproof sealant.

Houses on the side of a hill are prone to extra water penetration, especially since the poor surfaces and soil drainage contribute to water ponding. In most cases, it’s best to seek professional help. Work will usually require installing drains in, out, and around the perimeter of the foundation.

Health and Safety Check for Homeowners

It makes a lot of sense to schedule personal physical checkups with the family doctor – but not many homeowners realize that the same goes for their home. Yes, we’re talking professional home inspections , which, when done regularly, should give homeowners of all kinds a great idea how to keep and maintain their properties. (Just like a physical!)

Apart from these checkups, it’s also smart to come up with a health and safety checklist to keep homes from suffering unnecessary damages, defects, and deterioration. Houses differ, and so do the ways in keeping them “healthy”, but here are some general items that can be included in such a list:

Humidifiers and dehumidifiers

Many homeowners have installed moisture control systems like humidifiers and dehumidifiers in their houses. Humidifiers – typically set up with warm air heating systems – add moisture to the house air, while dehumidifiers remove moisture from the air in particular areas of the house, like the basement or the crawlspaces. Whatever the type of system, homeowners should check these moisture control devices regularly, and inspect their units for signs of leakage, overflowing water, or blocked drainage lines. When it comes to dehumidifiers, some units have to be manually emptied, and some feature automatic shut-offs and drainage; whatever the type, it’s important to clean units before and after seasonal use, and to properly remove any buildups that may affect the operation of these systems and devices.

Alarms and detectors

Alarms and detectors are supposed to send signals that something is wrong, but what if something is wrong with the alarms and detectors? To ensure best safety and security practices at home, check these devices regularly and make sure they’re working. If they’re old, and are about to outlast manufacturer-indicated life spans, then it’s probably time to go for a replacement.

Smokes and fire alarms are the homeowners’ first line of defense and warning, so it’s important to change the batteries of these devices at least once a year. CO monitors are also recommended, because they provide protection from toxic levels of carbon monoxide. Furthermore, if your particular neighborhood in Chicago or Metropolitan Chicago has included radon gas as a community health threat, then it might be necessary to go for radon testing, too. If unsure, check with your local municipal building department and consult home inspectors on how to protect yourself and your home from this invisible, odorless gas.

Of course, there will be times that one’s security systems might provide false alarms. In these cases, it’s important not to disengage the alarm, since this will put the home’s residents at a security risk. If the nuisance calls prove to be too much, there are always alternative systems from alarm companies that one can look at.

Emergencies

Health and safety at home isn’t just about installing security systems and safety devices. It’s about preparation, too. Homeowners should have the following items prepared for routine activities and cases of emergency:

• First Aid Kit
• Family contact list
• House equipment maintenance information
• Babysitter information (for homeowners with young children)
• Emergency evacuation kit
• Medical and financial records

A Primer on Asphalt Roofing

The most popular kind of roof covering used for pitched roofs on homes is asphalt shingles. It’s likely due to the fact that the overlapping design of installed shingles can provide double the protection whenever water flows down the roof and onto its edge. Also known as composition shingles, asphalt shingles are also inexpensive, lightweight, durable, and easy to install – not to mention, made with mineral granules on its surface to provide protection and fire-resistance elements.

Asphalt shingles can also come in a number of colors, weights, and patterns, but their general lifespan stays in the range of about 16-20 years. Some, however, can last even longer – up to 30 or 40 years – depending on the weight of the shingles. Roof surfaces with full southern exposure, meanwhile, tend to last less than the usual lifespan.

Installing asphalt roofs involves more than the usual roofing. Shingles are typically set up over solid wood or composite sheathing; a water-resistant felt uinderlayment, meanwhile, is rolled out over the sheath before applying the asphalt shingles. In Chicago, as well as in metropolitan Chicago neighborhoods and other areas with cold climates, it’s typical to install rubberized membranes along the eaves as some form of protection from ice dams and water backup.

All roof penetrations require flashings, too, which are basically angled barriers that have been designed to divert water and keep it from penetrating the surface of the roof. If one’s valley flashings are too narrow, then the water might find its way under the roof and cause flashing leaks.

A number of houses need a type of roof drainage system to control water, avoid seepage, and prevent damaging the exterior elements and structures of the house. In most cases, homeowners would hang metal or plastic gutters on the eave of the roof to carry the water to downspouts, thus discharging it safely at ground level. There are also wooden gutters as well as “Yankee” gutters, the latter being common in older homes.
Made of either vinyl or metal, downspouts should be big enough to take care of all the water that the gutters collected. Downspout size depends on the size of a house, but at lease one downspout is needed for every 25 to 30 feet of gutter length.

Gutters and downspouts both reduce erosion and protect steps and walkways from unwanted water or ice buildup. For this to work, homeowner should set the downspouts up in a way that they’re piped away from the foundation of the house, thus preventing the accumulation of water and seepage into the foundation. If there are existing underground lines, it’s important to keep them flowing. After all, most broken or damaged roof drainage systems are due to blockages and buildups.

Of course, one must regularly clean up the gutters and take the following steps in order to avoid problems with asphalt roofing:

• Trimming the trees to prevent roof and roof surface damage
• Conducting professional home inspections and checking the roof surface at least once a year to identify possible damages, lifted shingles, worn shingles, flashings, etc.
• Replacing missing or damaged shingles
• Inspecting the undersides of the roof for signs of damage, leakages, molds, and ventilation problems
• Maintaining proper ventilation – via automatic vents or vent fans – in the attic, which helps prevent damage to the roof structure
• Taking precautionary measures against ice dams, especially in cases when there’s heavy snowfall and subfreezing temperatures

Sometimes, only isolated parts of the roof would show some wear and tear, which can be replaced easily. Eventually, however, all roofing – no matter the type – will require replacement, and not just extensions of their service life. It’s okay to lay new shingles over old ones; this way, homeowners avoid the cost of labor and the work of removing the old shingles. In general, however, actual roofing conditions, roof framing conditions, and local practices and regulations will have a bearing on the method of re-roofing.

The Solutions to Banging Pipes

Sometimes, whenever homeowners use the faucets in the kitchen or the bathroom sinks, they would hear a strange sound from the walls – banging. There seems to be banging sounds coming from the water pipes. What is the cause of this? And what is the best solution to get rid of “banging pipes”?

Banging noises that seem to come from pipes are usually related to something called water hammer. This condition is basically caused by a lack of air in the pipes – and not actually by the presence of air in pipes. Water hammer is responsible for the banging, or even rattling, noises that one might hear as coming from the pipes. The sound is heard whenever faucets or valves are quickly closed. The pressure of the water slamming against a closed valve creates the noise, as there is no air in the pipes to cushion it. Loose pipes may also be responsible for the noise, because the vibrations made in the pipe by the sudden stoppage may cause pipes to knock against structural elements.

But homeowners have more to worry about than just the banging or rattling noise. Water pressure can actually cause premature damage to valves in appliances and fixtures, and that’s why it’s important to address the problem if you think you may have a case of water hammer in your pipes. (If unsure, simply consult home inspectors so that they can check on it.) One solution is to introduce air into your pipes, either by closing the main water valve in the house and opening the lowest faucet in the house (usually a basement or outdoor faucet). The key is to let the water drain out for about five minutes, until water finally stops coming from the faucets. The next step is to close all the faucets and reopen the main valve. As the pipes refill, air pockets can form at points in the system, thus creating that much-needed air cushion from the water pressure.

If, however, the banging noise persists, it’s recommended that one get a device called water-hammer arrester. Once installed, it can maintain the air cushion needed to prevent banging pipes, or the sound of some such.

A Quick Overview on Home Ventilation

Before the seventies, not a lot of attention was paid to cutting down air infiltration and to protecting against heat loss in houses. However, now that more emphasis is being given to tighter and more energy-efficient homes, we are seeing new problems with indoor air quality. Low air change rates are bringing about the buildup of moisture and pollutants, many of which can affect the health of homeowners and occupants, while also possible causing damage to the structures of houses.

To avoid these potential dangers, homeowners should provide for adequate air changes, as well as air movement through places like attics, crawlspaces, and unconditioned parts of the house.

For comfort and for the prevention of damage to house structures, homeowners should focus on achieving indoor humidity level that’s moderate. In most homes, where there’s a lot of cooking and bathing involved, or even just breathing, one may expect a considerable amount of moisture being generated. This is not to mention water penetration problems in crawlspaces and basements. Once humidity exceeds the moderate levels, it can manifest itself in the form of substantial condensation on windows and cold surfaces, and may eventually lead to problems with mildew and mold. This is not uncommon in Chicago and Metropolitan Chicago area homes where not enough attention is being paid to ventilation.

On the other end of the spectrum, chronic low humidity leads to a lot of discomfort, and can even cause damage to a house’s furnishings, fixtures, and finishes, leaving them dry and prone to cracking. Low levels of humidity indoors may prompt people to use humidifiers – especially during hot seasons or if they have forced warm air heating. These humidifiers, however, must be taken care of regularly, and even checked by home inspectors, in order that it does its job without pumping in excessive amounts of moisture. To help control the quality of indoor air, whole-house mechanical ventilation systems have been made available; heat recovery ventilators, meanwhile, incorporate a heat exchange process for a more energy-efficient operation.

Apart from providing enough air changes within the living areas of a house, ventilation of attics and crawlspaces is also important, as it prevents heat or moisture from building up, no matter the season. Heat buildup, after all, can lead to premature roof wear and uncomfortable indoor temperatures. Excessive moisture, meanwhile, can be the source of problems like fungal growth, odors, pests, and the decay of structural wood.

Homeowners should also be on the lookout for the infiltration of air with a lot of moisture, especially in attics and crawlspaces. During the winter, if warm moist air from the living areas enter the attic and makes contact with the colder underside of the roof sheathing or the joists in a crawlspace, the water vapor will condense – leading to possible structural decay and fungi growth. Condensation is a big concern among houses with cathedral-style ceilings, insulated roofs, and inadequate vapor retarders.

One way to prevent potential ventilation problems is by providing for at least one square foot of net-free vent area for each 150 sq. ft. of attic floor area. Additional ventilation measures may also be required, depending on actual house and weather conditions. If the temperature in the attic is higher than that of the air outside, or if one has noticed signs of condensation, then additional ventilation is called for. The ideal arrangement would be to set up intake vents at the lower eave area, and then exhaust vents at an area near the roof peak or the ridge vents. These vents should also be left open at all times, provided of course that the house is also properly insulated.

Sometimes, forced venting may be the solution. A wind- -assisted or electric-powered rooftop exhaust fan improves air flow through an attic; units like these are controlled by a thermostat. In other cases, it’s a humidistat that’s required, or maybe even whole house fans that are used generally for air-exchange purposes in the summer. These fans are designed to remove warm air from the living area by leading cooler, fresher air into the house.
Basements and attics must also be given enough ventilation. At least one square foot of free vent area is needed for every 1500 square feet. The ideal vent placement is to put the unit near the foundation corners, and to provide adequate moisture barriers, foundation grading and draining. In colder areas and neighborhoods in Chicago, or in colder climates, insulation between floor joists and basement walls is also recommended, but one must take safety measures to prevent any pipe freeze-up.

Ventilation problems can also arise from issues with appliances that burn fuel, like furnaces, boilers, and water heaters. That’s why it’s important to either consult home inspectors or follow the ventilation recommendations and codes of manufacturers. If unsure about your ventilation, have your venting systems checked. This will significantly reduce air quality concerns and prevent ventilation-related issues like carbon dioxide buildup.

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Keeping Basement Walls in Top Condition

It’s pretty exciting to be decorating and beautifying the walls of our homes; unfortunately, we don’t usually pay a lot of attention to our basement walls. Left neglected, basement walls can suffer from damages like leaks and moulds, reducing the value of our own houses as well as the level of safety within them.

Fixing basement walls, however, isn’t as complicated as it sounds. Here are a few simple tips to keep them strong and sturdy, not damp and decrepit.

Check the source of moisture. We all know what the weather in Chicago Metropolitan Area is like. The best way to cope with unpredictability is to be prepared. So check your rain gutters. Are they functioning properly? Are the downspouts clear and open? To carry or direct water away from the foundation, make sure you use long leaders or downspout extensions. If it’s possible, slope the ground around the wall.

Seal. Damp walls can be fixed with something as simple as a seal on a crack or a gap. There are lots of sealing materials you can use – the ones with a caulking compound are recommended – which can fix masonry types of basement walls. If, however, problems persist, consult qualified professionals and home inspectors, as they’ll be more equipped to determine if you need more extensive waterproofing work.

Prevention is better than patchwork. Waterproofing contractors will have lots of advice and recommendations for you to be able to remove the water that seeps in basement walls. But you can get ahead by focusing on prevention efforts, and by keeping the water from infiltrating your walls in the first place. As mentioned above, carry or direct the water away from the foundation. That way, you won’t have to do a significant amount of patchwork.