Building a Green Garden Office

Not too sure how many people living in the various urban neighborhoods and surburbs of Chicago actually have the option of building a green garden office, i.e. would’ve-been-shed, but it still seems dream-worthy [and blog-worthy]. Let’s think of it as inspiration for us lessluckies and useful information for those actually building, renovating that bungalow, or inheriting plots of empty land. Treehugger reviews tips from Lynn Fotheringham (British garden office builder InsideOutBuildings) in Shedworking. Lynn offers 7 suggestions, many of which revolve around buying locally.

1. PVC windows may save energy but the manufacturing of UPVC utilizes immense amounts of energy. Instead try buying from a local joinery and check for the wood coming from renewable forests.

2. Wood cladding and flooring is often assumed to be eco-friendly and simplistic, but many cladding and flooring products are pressure treated and imported, both processes which unnecessarily exalt energy. Again Lynn suggests buying locally, from well-managed [local] forests, untreated wood.

3. Using lots of insulation is always better, with a minimum of 4inches preferably. Sheepswool or Rockwool from firms with good environmental policy in their factories are always good options but it is always important to check the manufacturing process before choosing your insulation material. Also, Lloyd Alter from Treehugger reviews in more depth here .

4. Green and living roofs are obviously eco-friendly but at least 24 inches of soil is needed to have a practical level of insulation for intensive living roofs. Such insulation is reduced when the soil is dry, and in the warmer seasons irrigation and weeding is necessary. Many different layers of plastic for waterproofing and containing the soil are also needed. As explained by Johncoupe in a comment of the article there is another type of living roofs called extensive green roof, where only about 4 inches are necessary where “plants such as sedum, semper-vivum and other succulent, drought resistant plants. These types of plants are used to harsh dry and exposed habitats and so thrive in a thin layer of growing medium. There is no problem with irrigation as the plants are drought resistant and the habitat is too harsh for common weeds to establish. The roof members do need to be a bit stronger than normal to cope with the extra load and an extra root barrier and filter membrane are required. The roof does not provide the same insulation as the sheeps wool or rockwool but does go some way to reducing cooling requirements in summer and heating in winter even if it is only by adding a bit of thermal mass. The wildlife benefits are that you would have a new habitat in the garden and sedum in particular is very effective at attracting butterflies and bees. The roof garden in effect replaces the area taken up by the shed. On a large scale green roofs also have the benefit of reducing urban runoff and the load imposed by sudden thunder storms on the drainage systems, but that really applies to developments a lot larger than the average shed! See more at www.livingroofs.org
I would recommend the extensive green roof to shed builders.” Thanks John!

5. Wind Turbines- unless you are already living in a rural area with strong winds, wind turbines are relatively pointless and would be wasteful (and costly). Try sticking with low energy light bulbs that don’t lave equipment on standby and help insulate your home.

6. Recyclable materials are great but if they are going to fall apart on you in a few years they are also, like solo wind turbines, pointless. Build for life, not short-term, but it is always worthwhile to reuse and repurpose other things that might be used IN your well-built structure.

7. For paints and wood stains try to avoid Solvents and white spirit, turpentine, terpenes, ethereal oils, and acrylics. Good ingredients are water, binders, non-toxic pigments, mineral fillers, and waxes.

Essential Tips on Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are commonly found in the basement of homes, and they’re used to remove water that has accumulated in a water-collecting sump pit. In order for these pumps to continue working properly, it’s important to follow several maintenance guidelines, which may depend on manufacturer instructions, but which can also include the general tips listed below.

• Check the sump pump at least twice a year, preferably before the local wet season
• Inspect the drain line for signs of leakage, corrosion, defects, or damage
• With the pump cord disconnected:
• Ensure that you’re using a grounded three-prong receptacle, installed at least 18 inches above floor level and close enough to have the pump cord directly plugged into it
• Test the unit to confirm protection if a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (CFGI) has been installed at the receptacle outlet or in the electric panel
• Look out for debris or silt that may block the float or clog the pump
• Position the pump in such a way that the movement of the float that turns the pump on and off is not blocked by walls and other possible obstacles
• Set the height of the float in a way that it keeps the water toward the bottom at the normal line for high water
• Add or clear a small hole in the tube directly above the pump, in order to prevent airlock in the lines of discharge
• Secure the line every three to four feet
• Set up a check valve in the discharge line at the pump
• Before using the sump pump, double-check if it’s securely and directly plugged into the receptacle
• Avoid using extension cords, and avoid connecting sump pumps to sewer systems and private sewage systems
• Test an empty sump pit by adding enough water
• Consult home inspectors, manufacturer instructions, or qualified professionals when the automatic preset sensor switch, if the pump has one, is defective or not working properly
• Check if the pump turns on and off at the set-on level of the adjustable float switch (again, if the pump has one) whenever the water level drops
• Confirm airlock prevention by making sure that a small amount of water sprays out of the hole near the pump
• Set the float or pump higher in the pit if the pump runs all the time – to keep the water from the top of the sump
• Position the drain discharge point about 5 to 10 feet from the foundation, so as to prevent the runoff from causing backflow to the foundation
• Take precautions to ensure that the drain lines do not freeze or get blocked by ice
• Consider acquiring a backup sump pump, especially if it’s a home located in an area where there’s high potential for floods
• Equip the pump with batteries (and backup batteries)

Roofing 101 for Homeowners

Asphalt shingles may be the most popular kind of sloped roofing these days, but it doesn’t mean that it’s the only one. There are many other roofing types, most of them with equally viable features for protection, durability, and appearance – and each of them with unique looks and economic life. Whatever the type, roofing requires proper attention from homeowners: this means annual condition checks, programs for preventive maintenance, and proper care.

Non-asphalt types of roofing include slate, wood shingle, wood shake, tile, and cement. Here’s a quick look at each one of them.

Slate

Slate roofing has been used for hundreds of years around the world, and its lifespan may explain why. Most slate roofs – particularly if the slate comes from Vermont and Virginia – can last as long as 50 years with proper annual care. Slate roofs with slate from Pennsylvania, meanwhile, can last for at least 35 years.

To maximize this durability, homeowners should have their roofs checked by professional home inspectors, slaters, and qualified specialists. Major areas of concern would include flashings, leakages, missing or cracked slates, frozen slates, rusted nails, and damaged ridged slates. Because nails serve as fasteners from which the slates are hung, it’s recommended that one get longer-lasting copper nails over galvanized ones.

Wood Shingles and Shakes

An estimated 10 percent of residences use roofs that are covered with wood, which can be either shingles or shakes. Typically made from red cedar, wooden roofs can be sawn to a uniform shape – thus making wooden shingles. These shingles are a cheaper alternative to shakes, and can have a life span of 15 to 20 years.

Shakes, meanwhile, offer thicker, often hand-split, and longer-lasting roofs. Whatever the type of wood on the roof, homeowners should take special care to maintain this general type of roofing, as well as minimize the chances of fire spread. Fine retardant pretreatment is recommended in most cases, no matter the grade, quality, or thickness of the wood shingles or the wood shakes. However, in areas where the risk of wildfires is high, it is generally recommended to use non-wooden roofing products in future roof replacements.

But fire spread isn’t the only concern for homeowners with wooden roofs. Flashings should be right up there, too, since acid in the wood can easily corrode metal flashings, thus increasing the likelihood of leaks. On annual checks of wood roofs, homeowners should inspect signs of weathered, split, or curled shingles or shakes, and replace all the damaged ones for maximum protection. Moreover, it’s important to remove any amount of leaf, mold, or mildew buildup. To achieve or even exceed the economic life expectancy of any wood roof, it’s essential to maintain proper ventilation in the attic.

Tile and Concrete

The red clay roofing tile is a classic, and will remain so, as it stands as the roofing mainstay of good, quality homes in Chicagoland and the rest of America. Available in many shapes – including the half-barrel and the flat-shaped, wooden-shingle-like tiles – clay tile roofs can last for as long as 40 years, provided that they’re maintained properly. One way to do this is through pressure cleaning, which will minimize mold-caused darkening common in areas where there’s high humidity. Homeowners should not let this go unchecked, as clay tiles (especially unglazed ones) are prone to holding dampness, and to conditions that may affect their appearance and life.

Concrete roof tiles, meanwhile, are common in areas with warmer climates. These tiles are formed using cement, sand, and water, and come in various shapes either flat or curved. Life span is about 25 to 40 years, but while durable, they can be on the heavy side, and may even require proper roof framing support. To check the conditions of tile or concrete roofs, homeowners can consult professional home inspectors, who may take the approach of recommending replacement when roofing problems occur.

The Benefits of Energy Efficient Windows on Your Home

Isn’t it great that more and more homeowners are going green? The demand for energy-efficient home appliances is rising – eco-friendly AC systems, refrigerators, light bulbs, etc. – and we’re all the better for it. The earth is healthier for it.

Here’s one thing you might not realize: there’s no need to be limited to home appliances. Even for something as simple as the windows in your home, there are environment-friendly alternatives.

Yes, we’re talking energy-efficient windows.

The windows we’ve all gotten used to in our homes are mostly designed with single panes – just one layer of glass. Energy-efficient windows, meanwhile (and while they come in different designs and materials), have a second window pane. They might also come with an injection of argon or krypton between the two panes, or with coatings on the exterior of the panes, applied basically to improve insulation and stabilize the temperature indoors. These extras make energy-efficient windows typically more expensive, but as you’ll find out below, the benefits of installing them in your home can translate to a smart investment that will certainly eventually pay for itself.

Benefits of Energy-Efficient Windows

• Less electricity consumed – lower utility costs. Simple enough, right? Because energy-efficient windows offer additional insulation capabilities, you can save as much as 10 to 15 percent of your usual monthly utility bill. And, because these windows also act as great stabilizers of the temperature inside your home, they can reduce the load carried by your HVAC system. Indeed, heating and cooling systems run much more efficiently with these high-performance windows.

• Improved comfort levels. The glazing technology incorporated in a number of energy-efficient windows makes for a more comfortable home, no matter the season. There’d be less cold air leakage and uncomfortable drafts in winter; in summer, there’d be less UV radiation and heat coming through the window panes and into your home. The overall temperature is more even and stable – not to mention easier to retain.

• Reduced fading. Are you concerned about the effects of direct sunlight on your exposed carpet, fabrics, paintings, and furniture? With energy-efficient windows you’ll have much less to worry about. The coatings on the glass of “green” windows can actually absorb UV radiation and reduce UV transmission by up to 75 percent. Several kinds of energy-efficient windows, moreover, have exterior coatings that can reduce water spots up to 99 percent – thus minimizing exterior dirt build-up and reducing spring cleaning duties.

• Better, brighter, clearer, quieter views. Going green on windows doesn’t mean you’re going to have to compromise the appearance of your home. On the contrary! Insulated glass windows come in different shapes and forms, from aluminum and fiberglass to wood and vinyl. Energy-efficient windows, apart from possessing a unique aesthetic quality, can also display better, clearer views – especially in winter. That’s because there would be significantly less condensation building up on the window pane. Oh, and the road and traffic noise that keeps a homeowner up late at night? With energy-efficient windows, sound is kept out by the insulation between the panes, insulation that also effectively acts as a sound-proofing buffer.

Are you ready to go green and install energy-efficient windows in your home? You can count on Greenwerks – Chicago’s green contractor – to get the job done.

Health and Safety Check for Homeowners

It makes a lot of sense to schedule personal physical checkups with the family doctor – but not many homeowners realize that the same goes for their home. Yes, we’re talking professional home inspections , which, when done regularly, should give homeowners of all kinds a great idea how to keep and maintain their properties. (Just like a physical!)

Apart from these checkups, it’s also smart to come up with a health and safety checklist to keep homes from suffering unnecessary damages, defects, and deterioration. Houses differ, and so do the ways in keeping them “healthy”, but here are some general items that can be included in such a list:

Humidifiers and dehumidifiers

Many homeowners have installed moisture control systems like humidifiers and dehumidifiers in their houses. Humidifiers – typically set up with warm air heating systems – add moisture to the house air, while dehumidifiers remove moisture from the air in particular areas of the house, like the basement or the crawlspaces. Whatever the type of system, homeowners should check these moisture control devices regularly, and inspect their units for signs of leakage, overflowing water, or blocked drainage lines. When it comes to dehumidifiers, some units have to be manually emptied, and some feature automatic shut-offs and drainage; whatever the type, it’s important to clean units before and after seasonal use, and to properly remove any buildups that may affect the operation of these systems and devices.

Alarms and detectors

Alarms and detectors are supposed to send signals that something is wrong, but what if something is wrong with the alarms and detectors? To ensure best safety and security practices at home, check these devices regularly and make sure they’re working. If they’re old, and are about to outlast manufacturer-indicated life spans, then it’s probably time to go for a replacement.

Smokes and fire alarms are the homeowners’ first line of defense and warning, so it’s important to change the batteries of these devices at least once a year. CO monitors are also recommended, because they provide protection from toxic levels of carbon monoxide. Furthermore, if your particular neighborhood in Chicago or Metropolitan Chicago has included radon gas as a community health threat, then it might be necessary to go for radon testing, too. If unsure, check with your local municipal building department and consult home inspectors on how to protect yourself and your home from this invisible, odorless gas.

Of course, there will be times that one’s security systems might provide false alarms. In these cases, it’s important not to disengage the alarm, since this will put the home’s residents at a security risk. If the nuisance calls prove to be too much, there are always alternative systems from alarm companies that one can look at.

Emergencies

Health and safety at home isn’t just about installing security systems and safety devices. It’s about preparation, too. Homeowners should have the following items prepared for routine activities and cases of emergency:

• First Aid Kit
• Family contact list
• House equipment maintenance information
• Babysitter information (for homeowners with young children)
• Emergency evacuation kit
• Medical and financial records

A Primer on Asphalt Roofing

The most popular kind of roof covering used for pitched roofs on homes is asphalt shingles. It’s likely due to the fact that the overlapping design of installed shingles can provide double the protection whenever water flows down the roof and onto its edge. Also known as composition shingles, asphalt shingles are also inexpensive, lightweight, durable, and easy to install – not to mention, made with mineral granules on its surface to provide protection and fire-resistance elements.

Asphalt shingles can also come in a number of colors, weights, and patterns, but their general lifespan stays in the range of about 16-20 years. Some, however, can last even longer – up to 30 or 40 years – depending on the weight of the shingles. Roof surfaces with full southern exposure, meanwhile, tend to last less than the usual lifespan.

Installing asphalt roofs involves more than the usual roofing. Shingles are typically set up over solid wood or composite sheathing; a water-resistant felt uinderlayment, meanwhile, is rolled out over the sheath before applying the asphalt shingles. In Chicago, as well as in metropolitan Chicago neighborhoods and other areas with cold climates, it’s typical to install rubberized membranes along the eaves as some form of protection from ice dams and water backup.

All roof penetrations require flashings, too, which are basically angled barriers that have been designed to divert water and keep it from penetrating the surface of the roof. If one’s valley flashings are too narrow, then the water might find its way under the roof and cause flashing leaks.

A number of houses need a type of roof drainage system to control water, avoid seepage, and prevent damaging the exterior elements and structures of the house. In most cases, homeowners would hang metal or plastic gutters on the eave of the roof to carry the water to downspouts, thus discharging it safely at ground level. There are also wooden gutters as well as “Yankee” gutters, the latter being common in older homes.
Made of either vinyl or metal, downspouts should be big enough to take care of all the water that the gutters collected. Downspout size depends on the size of a house, but at lease one downspout is needed for every 25 to 30 feet of gutter length.

Gutters and downspouts both reduce erosion and protect steps and walkways from unwanted water or ice buildup. For this to work, homeowner should set the downspouts up in a way that they’re piped away from the foundation of the house, thus preventing the accumulation of water and seepage into the foundation. If there are existing underground lines, it’s important to keep them flowing. After all, most broken or damaged roof drainage systems are due to blockages and buildups.

Of course, one must regularly clean up the gutters and take the following steps in order to avoid problems with asphalt roofing:

• Trimming the trees to prevent roof and roof surface damage
• Conducting professional home inspections and checking the roof surface at least once a year to identify possible damages, lifted shingles, worn shingles, flashings, etc.
• Replacing missing or damaged shingles
• Inspecting the undersides of the roof for signs of damage, leakages, molds, and ventilation problems
• Maintaining proper ventilation – via automatic vents or vent fans – in the attic, which helps prevent damage to the roof structure
• Taking precautionary measures against ice dams, especially in cases when there’s heavy snowfall and subfreezing temperatures

Sometimes, only isolated parts of the roof would show some wear and tear, which can be replaced easily. Eventually, however, all roofing – no matter the type – will require replacement, and not just extensions of their service life. It’s okay to lay new shingles over old ones; this way, homeowners avoid the cost of labor and the work of removing the old shingles. In general, however, actual roofing conditions, roof framing conditions, and local practices and regulations will have a bearing on the method of re-roofing.

The Solutions to Banging Pipes

Sometimes, whenever homeowners use the faucets in the kitchen or the bathroom sinks, they would hear a strange sound from the walls – banging. There seems to be banging sounds coming from the water pipes. What is the cause of this? And what is the best solution to get rid of “banging pipes”?

Banging noises that seem to come from pipes are usually related to something called water hammer. This condition is basically caused by a lack of air in the pipes – and not actually by the presence of air in pipes. Water hammer is responsible for the banging, or even rattling, noises that one might hear as coming from the pipes. The sound is heard whenever faucets or valves are quickly closed. The pressure of the water slamming against a closed valve creates the noise, as there is no air in the pipes to cushion it. Loose pipes may also be responsible for the noise, because the vibrations made in the pipe by the sudden stoppage may cause pipes to knock against structural elements.

But homeowners have more to worry about than just the banging or rattling noise. Water pressure can actually cause premature damage to valves in appliances and fixtures, and that’s why it’s important to address the problem if you think you may have a case of water hammer in your pipes. (If unsure, simply consult home inspectors so that they can check on it.) One solution is to introduce air into your pipes, either by closing the main water valve in the house and opening the lowest faucet in the house (usually a basement or outdoor faucet). The key is to let the water drain out for about five minutes, until water finally stops coming from the faucets. The next step is to close all the faucets and reopen the main valve. As the pipes refill, air pockets can form at points in the system, thus creating that much-needed air cushion from the water pressure.

If, however, the banging noise persists, it’s recommended that one get a device called water-hammer arrester. Once installed, it can maintain the air cushion needed to prevent banging pipes, or the sound of some such.

A Quick Overview on Home Ventilation

Before the seventies, not a lot of attention was paid to cutting down air infiltration and to protecting against heat loss in houses. However, now that more emphasis is being given to tighter and more energy-efficient homes, we are seeing new problems with indoor air quality. Low air change rates are bringing about the buildup of moisture and pollutants, many of which can affect the health of homeowners and occupants, while also possible causing damage to the structures of houses.

To avoid these potential dangers, homeowners should provide for adequate air changes, as well as air movement through places like attics, crawlspaces, and unconditioned parts of the house.

For comfort and for the prevention of damage to house structures, homeowners should focus on achieving indoor humidity level that’s moderate. In most homes, where there’s a lot of cooking and bathing involved, or even just breathing, one may expect a considerable amount of moisture being generated. This is not to mention water penetration problems in crawlspaces and basements. Once humidity exceeds the moderate levels, it can manifest itself in the form of substantial condensation on windows and cold surfaces, and may eventually lead to problems with mildew and mold. This is not uncommon in Chicago and Metropolitan Chicago area homes where not enough attention is being paid to ventilation.

On the other end of the spectrum, chronic low humidity leads to a lot of discomfort, and can even cause damage to a house’s furnishings, fixtures, and finishes, leaving them dry and prone to cracking. Low levels of humidity indoors may prompt people to use humidifiers – especially during hot seasons or if they have forced warm air heating. These humidifiers, however, must be taken care of regularly, and even checked by home inspectors, in order that it does its job without pumping in excessive amounts of moisture. To help control the quality of indoor air, whole-house mechanical ventilation systems have been made available; heat recovery ventilators, meanwhile, incorporate a heat exchange process for a more energy-efficient operation.

Apart from providing enough air changes within the living areas of a house, ventilation of attics and crawlspaces is also important, as it prevents heat or moisture from building up, no matter the season. Heat buildup, after all, can lead to premature roof wear and uncomfortable indoor temperatures. Excessive moisture, meanwhile, can be the source of problems like fungal growth, odors, pests, and the decay of structural wood.

Homeowners should also be on the lookout for the infiltration of air with a lot of moisture, especially in attics and crawlspaces. During the winter, if warm moist air from the living areas enter the attic and makes contact with the colder underside of the roof sheathing or the joists in a crawlspace, the water vapor will condense – leading to possible structural decay and fungi growth. Condensation is a big concern among houses with cathedral-style ceilings, insulated roofs, and inadequate vapor retarders.

One way to prevent potential ventilation problems is by providing for at least one square foot of net-free vent area for each 150 sq. ft. of attic floor area. Additional ventilation measures may also be required, depending on actual house and weather conditions. If the temperature in the attic is higher than that of the air outside, or if one has noticed signs of condensation, then additional ventilation is called for. The ideal arrangement would be to set up intake vents at the lower eave area, and then exhaust vents at an area near the roof peak or the ridge vents. These vents should also be left open at all times, provided of course that the house is also properly insulated.

Sometimes, forced venting may be the solution. A wind- -assisted or electric-powered rooftop exhaust fan improves air flow through an attic; units like these are controlled by a thermostat. In other cases, it’s a humidistat that’s required, or maybe even whole house fans that are used generally for air-exchange purposes in the summer. These fans are designed to remove warm air from the living area by leading cooler, fresher air into the house.
Basements and attics must also be given enough ventilation. At least one square foot of free vent area is needed for every 1500 square feet. The ideal vent placement is to put the unit near the foundation corners, and to provide adequate moisture barriers, foundation grading and draining. In colder areas and neighborhoods in Chicago, or in colder climates, insulation between floor joists and basement walls is also recommended, but one must take safety measures to prevent any pipe freeze-up.

Ventilation problems can also arise from issues with appliances that burn fuel, like furnaces, boilers, and water heaters. That’s why it’s important to either consult home inspectors or follow the ventilation recommendations and codes of manufacturers. If unsure about your ventilation, have your venting systems checked. This will significantly reduce air quality concerns and prevent ventilation-related issues like carbon dioxide buildup.

What You Should Know About Steam and Hot Water

Water-based heating systems have proved to be one of the best sources of noiseless, uniform home heating for several years. There are two general types of systems to look for: steam and hot water. While these systems differ in their operation and controls, they both implement a boiler as a vessel to warm the water and a piped distribution system linked to radiators (or convectors) to make heating within the various areas of a house. The most popular kinds of fuels used with residential boilers are gas and oil.

In a steam boiler, water is heated like the way water is heated in a whistling teapot. While water in the partly filled teapot or boiler is heated to 212°F (100°C), it transforms to steam while the pressure within the system increases. In a teapot, excess pressure is actually vented by having a hole in the spout. In a steam heating system, meanwhile, the steam increases under low pressure (lower than 5 psi, or pounds per square inch) through the pipes towards the radiators. On each radiator, an air vent starts as the steam boosts the air pressure inside the radiator. When the steam reaches the vent, it shuts off. When the temperature of the radiator radiates in the room, the steam gradually cools and condenses to water, and, by gravity-flow, returns into the boiler to be reheated.

All steam boilers need a pressure relief valve and a low-water cut off. Nearly all steam systems require a manual feed valve, thereby allowing for the regular addition of water to the system. A “sight” gauge on the side of the boiler indicates the water level. Water typically needs to be added every few weeks in order to maintain the water level at the one-half to two-thirds level.

A steam system should operate without any excessive noise. If you find a “knocking” noise in your system, it may well indicate partly closed or malfunctioning valves or sagging pipes. Constant discharging of the air or steam indicates a vent failure.

Current forced hot-water heating systems employ one or more pumps to speedily and quietly circulate the heated water through pipes to convectors (or radiators). This sort of system is a closed system, counting on the physical relationship of pressure, temperatures, and volume for a more secure and efficient operation.

When the thermostat calls for heat, an oil or gas burner is set off and begins to heat up the water in the boiler. Depending on particular system, the circulator pump will switch on to begin circulating the water throughout the house either when the thermostat requires heat or when the water reaches a pre-set temperature.

A good number of modern hot water boilers have an automatic feed system. When the water is heated, it expands. The extra volume is forced into an expansion tank, which will help protect against the build up of too much pressure. A pressure relief valve is likewise needed to guarantee the boiler pressure doesn’t get to extreme levels. Boiler temperature and pressure are usually observed on a gauge installed on the unit. Under typical working conditions temperatures can range from 160° to 220°F (70-105°C), with water pressure within the 12-18 psi (pounds per square inch) range. Readings beyond these ranges generally signify that the unit needs to be checked out, by professional home inspectors or qualified specialists.

The original hot water systems run by gravity flow, with the heated water rising by convection throughout the distribution system. This type of system also makes use of a manual feed valve and open expansion tank, typically set up in the attic or an upper closet. Gravity systems are hardly ever present in their original state; most happen to be replaced or have been modernized.

Steam and hot water systems come with an economic service lifetime of approximately 20-25 years; many run beyond that time frame. No matter the age or type system, yearly servicing is advised. One interesting characteristic of forced hot water systems is the capacity to break the systems up into specific zones, enabling the separate control of the heating in the individual rooms or areas of the house. This is accomplished by means of numerous zone valves and multiple circulator pumps.

Another kind of distribution system sometimes observed with hot water boilers is known as a radiant system. Plastic or metal pipes are installed in the concrete floor slab or in tracks in a wood floor system then covered with finished floor coverings. There aren’t any radiators; the heat radiates from your floor as the concrete is warmed up. The benefit of this kind of system is that it offers even heating at the lowest or normally coldest place in the house. Drawbacks with radiant systems include things like problems in identifying or finding leakages and also restrictions on the kind floor coverings used. While carpeting may be used with radiant heat, heavy cushioning and/or carpeting may decrease system efficiency.

With some older heating systems, there may be a chance that the piping and/or boiler is wrapped with an asbestos-containing insulation. Using this type of insulation, safety measures are recommended; usually any repair, encapsulation work, or removal should be done by a qualified professional. The HouseMaster Home Owner Information Guide on “Asbestos in the Home” at HouseMaster.com contains additional information.